Shark Infested Waters

Friday 8th July 2022

We said our goodbye’s to Paul and Trish, and headed over to Nevadra. This is in such a beautiful group of little islands, just a couple of hours sail from Musket Cove. More often than not it proves to be a very rolly anchorage, and any stay there really needs to coincide with the right conditions, we get it wrong more times than we get it right, and end up enduring sleepless nights while Daisy does her best to tip us out of bed.

I had my fingers crossed that we would find a lovely flat, calm bay. Sadly this was not to be the case, but we decided to stay anyway, in the hope that it would quiet down as the evening progressed. (It didn’t)

However, we were in for a treat, as soon as I started to drop the anchor, a group of beautiful black tip sharks arrived circling the boat, there were eleven of them that I could count, ranging in size from around 4 to 6 feet. The water was so incredibly clear, it was as if we were watching them swimming in the air. They’re the most graceful creatures that continued to swim around Daisy for several hours, as if sentries on watch. I managed to get some half decent video.

I don’t usually worry about swimming where there are sharks, especially black tips, they’re not typically aggressive towards swimmers, more often than not they’re very shy and will swim away from you rather than approach you (or that’s always been my experience).

Bob and I have come across sharks many times while swimming, and had no problems at all. Having said that, I wasn’t overly keen to get in the water with a large group of sizable black tips; Bob suggested we take the kayak over to the island, but I couldn’t even bring myself to do that, also because the water was quite choppy, and I’m not the most elegant or coordinated these days when getting in and out of the kayak from the boat. So we stayed onboard, relaxed sipped cocktails and just watched the show.

Bob’s last visit here with his crew, they also saw the sharks, and witnessed an unusual display of them leaping out of the water and spinning, we have seen dolphins doing that, but never sharks; sadly we were not graced with their spinning display this time, maybe another visit, that is if I can gird my loins for another rolly night. I was so dizzy when I got up this morning, I won’t be rushing back to Navadra any time soon. As I write this we’re sailing across to Waya, in search of a peaceful still anchorage, (with hopefully, no sharks!

Lunchtime Laughter

Thursday 7th July 2022

We’re still all at Musket Cove; Paul and Trish check out tomorrow, to continue their sojourn with the third Oyster World Rally. Their next stop New Caledonia, and then on to Australia, while we remain here in the beautiful Islands of Fiji.

We planned another (our last together for a while) lunch out. Paul found a resort restaurant on Malolo Island that we hadn’t visited before, and thought it would be fun to try. It was only a short walk from Musket Cove. I’m not going to mention the name of the resort we went to for lunch, but can’t resist sharing our experience there.

We arrived early, and chose a table outside overlooking the bay. There was a man playing a guitar and singing (quite loudly), and our table was quite close to the pool, (with all the happy, screaming children). With my rapidly declining hearing, I struggle these days with conversation in loud locations, and can’t help but wonder why music has to be played so loudly in restaurants where people are attempting to enjoy a meal and have conversation.

After a while, having given up waiting for a waiter, Paul went to locate the menus, “for how many people?” the waitress asked him “four” Paul replied, so she handed him two menu’s!

The menu choices were sparse, and when eventually a waitress arrived to take our orders, the choices Bob and I had made were not available, so I decided upon a pizza, thinking they couldn’t be out of that!

Having looked at the wine list and made our selection, we were told none of the wines we wanted were available, they had one bottle of Sauvignon Blanc (only one), so we had that, but I think the bottle must have been left out in the sun at some point as it really wasn’t good, (it was a well known wine, from a reputable vineyard), we drank it anyway.

When we later tried to order another bottle of wine, we were told there was only one available, and it was the most expensive bottle on the menu! It was our last meal out together for a while, so ‘what the heck’ we ordered the wine, disappointingly, it wasn’t great either despite it’s enormous price tag. However, what was fantastic was the company, and what was plentiful was the laughter. The guitar player had taken a break, but was now back in his corner, fully refreshed, and singing at full volume. It’s rare that I hear someone singing more off key than myself, I can’t sing a note, I sound like an alley cat with a sore throat howling at the moon; I have rhythm, and I can dance, but I have never been able to sing a single note in key, this didn’t stop me though, the four of us joined in with each song and applauded loudly after each one. The man with the guitar singing, seemed to appreciate our solidarity. The food was not great, the wine was terrible, the location was noisy, the service a long way from brilliant, but despite all of that, we had a really fun afternoon laughing our way through.

Oyster World Rally #3

B76B3FCF-CD05-4814-84D0-8F9E5AAC64E6Sunday 3rd July 2022

We’re still at Musket Cove, loving the peace and quiet out in the bay, as well as the restaurants, shops  and other facilities. The majority of the Oyster fleet are stern to here at the resort, in preparation for the party tonight.  Bob and I aren’t part of this rally, but because Daisy is an Oyster, and here the bay we were invited to join the party.

The only condition was we both had to do a COVID test before we went.  Happily both tests were negative, so we were good to go.

As with all Oyster party’s, the evening was really well organized and a lot of fun, the food was delicious and the entire evening was a great success; the band they hired was brilliant, the lead singer had the most incredible voice. Trish danced like a teenager all night, and dragged everyone up on the floor.

The people in this fleet are a relaxed, lovely, happy, easy going bunch that remind me so much of the people on the first Oyster rally,  9 years ago. Bob and I are still friends with so many from that first rally.

In 2018, we did the New Zealand to Vanuatu, and on up the Queensland coast of Australia to Darwin legs of the second Oyster world rally, on our friends Lesley and Don’s boat True Blue. We really enjoyed our time with them and their crew, and we met some lovely people in the rally, but overall the participants were a very different group from the first, and I didn’t sense a closeness that was so evident on the 2013 rally, but that being said, Bob and I only did four months of that rally so maybe the group developed a closeness as the time passed.

Anyway, moving along,  We’re getting ready to say goodbye to Paul and Trish again, as they’ll be heading out with the fleet later this week to cross to New Caledonia and on to Australia.

We’re going to miss them, once more…

 

Denarau Marina, Thank you!

Friday 1st July 2022

Today, Bob and I will have been married for 44 years, quite an achievement these days I think, particularly since we’re still happy together.

We were alongside in Denarau Marina (my favorite marina in Fiji), to get our freezer fixed, and to hand over the torn sail to the sailmakers. We had originally only booked for the one night (30th June), Bob had asked them if they had space for a few more nights, sadly they were fully booked, so when we arrived I went to the office to ask again just in case a slip had become free,  “Yes” was the reply, “you can stay another two nights if you wish”. This was great, not only could we have our dinner out, but we could also do some provisioning in the big supermarket in town. The booking was confirmed and our plans were made.

But then, the next morning (1st July) the marina called us to say they were very  “sorry but we double booked your slip, you will have to leave today”. Bummer, however, the fridge repair people had turned up (last time they were due, it was a no show), and Marshal Sails had already called and collected the torn sail, so all that was left was to do a quick provision before we had to leave, our dinner plans would just have to take a raincheck.

Trish and I took a cab to the local supermarket, Jetpoint, recommended  by the marina office but following our visit absolutely NOT recommended by me. Previously Bob and I would drive to an enormous supermarket the other side of town, out by the airport, it’s a bit of a drive to get there but they mostly have what I’m looking for. However, because the marina recommended this “great” supermarket just around the corner we decided to go there. I’m not sure what was so great about it, other than it was a bit closer.

FB83F6F9-BFA7-49B4-BEB3-48A200E64345

Trish in the cookwear section. It was not exactly what we were shopping for, but if anyone needs a large cook pot, Jetpoint is your store!
Having picked up a few things, (no cookwear)  the food choices were extremely limited, we headed back to the marina. The freezer repair technicians had left so we were free to go. We left the marina at lunchtime and headed back to beautiful Musket Cove.

That night I cooked us a truly delicious, anniversary dinner; we had cocktails at sunset, followed by dinner under the stars, in a beautifully warm, blissfully calm bay. The evening was as perfect as it could have been. The dinner I prepared for us was better than anything we would have had in a restaurant in Denarau, (I’m not saying that the marinas restaurants food isn’t good, it’s all lovely, its just that mine is better).  For details of the dinner I made go to Daisy’s Galley Facebook page.

C2A33DF6-64BB-4EA2-B4B0-4F349F2EDF5C
Our 44th wedding anniversary was one of the loveliest ever.

Thank you Denarau Marina for double booking us, our evening was different to what we had planned  but turned out to be absolutely perfect 🙂

Disasters Never far Off When on a Boat!

Sunday 26th June 2022

it’s hard to believe how much I’ve been enjoying our sailing in Fiji these past few weeks; anyone who knows me or reads my blog will be aware of my passionate dislike of sailing, but for the past few weeks we’ve had some of the loveliest weather, and gorgeous smooth sailing I can remember between the islands, I’ve been absolutely loving it. 

Daisy is probably in the best shape she’s been since new, certainly since we’ve had her. With our new decks, new generator, fabulous new water maker, fridge and many other improvements we’ve made over the last couple of years; this particular vacation we seem to have spent more time relaxing and enjoying ourselves than we have working, that’s really unusual for us, but a very welcome change. 

Since we had Daisy it’s been about 75-80% work and 25% pleasure (at least for me), Bob is happy no matter what he’s doing on the boat, as long as he’s on the water he’s happy, not so much for me (till now).

Anyway, yesterday we left Mantaray bay alongside Babe, (Paul and Trish’s boat) both boats raised their sails and were having the most gloriously fabulous sail across to our next destination, side by side, in near perfect conditions, it was really lovely. 

 

Crazy Daisy

This photo curtsey of Paul on Babe,

I was just thinking how well everything had been going this trip.  The wind was between 15 and 20 knots, we had our big Genoa and mainsail out and we were flying smoothly along between 7-9 knots. All was absolutely lovely, but then, just as Bob was adjusting the sheet on the genoa, a huge wind gust hit us and literally ripped the big genoa in half, I couldn’t believe it, as I watched the huge sail literally torn in two before my eyes; suddenly we find ourselves rushing around trying to reef in the shredded sail, Bob started the engine and then rushed forward to grab the lower part of the sail that was dragging in the water alongside us, as I started to try to bring the remnants of our sail in.  We did get it in without too much trouble but it was in two pieces, the bottom half all bunched up and the top starting to shred in the wind, it was not a pretty sight.

OH well, after all it’s a boat, no one was hurt, what can you do? These things happen.

The genoa is a very large lightweight sail that’s perfect for sailing conditions in these islands, unfortunately its not built to withstand really strong wind gusts. 

Once we dropped anchor in the bay, I (with Paul’s help) winched Bob up the sail to wrap a line around the loose pieces that were threatening to rip away from what was left of the sail and hopefully prevent any more damage.  And maybe if the wind drops enough today, we can get the genoa down and raise our jib in its place.  It looks like the wind may drop later this morning, so fingers crossed, then we just have to get the sail to a sailmaker and hope it can be fixed 🙁  Boat life, always something…

 

Why I Hate Cruise Ships

In response to so many of you who have already bombarded me with messages and emails regarding my discrimination of cruise ships.

Yes, I have taken a cruise, two actually in my life, both before I was 20 and both of them not at all to my liking; being stuck on a ship (no matter how luxurious)  with 4000/6000 other people, loud halers booming out all day, announcing the next “entertainment”, OMG please shoot me now, it’s just not for me AT ALL.

However, I do appreciate that there are many thousands of people who love to cruise, my beloved great aunt Mary, was one of them, bless her, she spent the last 20 years of her life just cruising the worlds oceans, totally oblivious of the damage to the environment the cruise ships were reaping upon our precious planet..

The thing I truly hate about cruise ships is the BILLIONS of tons of sewerage and waste that they carelessly spew out into our oceans. This has a devastating effect on the oceans corals, life, and everything that lives in the ocean, not to mention the billions of gallons of fuel their engines burn contributing to global warming.

No, I’m not a fan of cruise ships, I would ban them totally if I was able. If you disagree with me that’s your prerogative, but before you do look at the facts.

Cruise ships contribute hugely towards the destruction of our planet…

Unspoiled Beauty

One of Crazy Daisy’s favorite stops when in the Fijian Islands, has always been ” The Sacred Islands” Navadra, Eori, Kadomo and  Vanua Levu. These are a small group of Islands that lie northwest of  the Mamanucas. They’re totally uninhabited, other than goats and many, many sea birds, including the rare “White Tern”.

The anchorage we’ve usually favored is off Navadra, but it can be very rolly if the wind and current are not in your favor, and we’ve spent more than our fair share of uncomfortable nights there.

These Islands are held sacred in Fijian culture, and held holy in Fijian myth. Many Fijian’s think of them as the birthplace of Fijian culture, believing that the first people landed here 2500 years ago.

We simply loved the isolation and peace there, the islands are absolutely beautiful in their “way off the beaten track location”, which is always what we’re searching for.  The snorkeling and diving are great too. If we wanted crowded bars, disco’s, casinos and all that crap, we would head right back to Aruba.  Having said that,  the cruise ships and tour boats discovered the “desert Island” attraction for their guests, and used these  islands to stop for day trips, shoveling them all ashore in their hundreds, with their bright Hawaiian shirts, long socks, floppy hats and flourescent sunburnt skin, to spend an afternoon on a desert island, which quite honestly defeats the whole idea of  “desert Island”.

In the meantime: The people on the Island of Tavua who consider themselves guardians of the “Sacred Islands” put up large signs on the beaches in 2019, demanding money from any visitors that dare to set foot on the Islands, I believe it was $20 per person; on one hand it will quite possibly stop the cruise ship/tour boat infestation, but on the other hand, cruisers like Bob and myself will simply avoid these islands.  In the long run, this could be good as it will preserve the natural unspoiled beauty of the Islands and its wildlife, so perhaps there is an upside after all.

Since COVID, the cruise ships have yet to come back,  unfortunately I’m sure they will return before too long, so we should make the most of it while we can, either pay for our visit and enjoy the tranquility, or stay away!

Either way, keep the beaches clean, leave only footprints, take only photographs 🙂

Batten Down the Hatches

Monday 20th June 2022

Following a few rain squalls yesterday afternoon, we woke this morning to a sky that was ominously dark grey and foreboding. The wind was slowly gaining in strength, but it looked as though the actual storm was way off in the distance. A couple of people were out on their foils, wizzing around the bay enjoying the building wind. We sat up on deck and called our son Edi to check on his progress sailing up the East coast, and while we were chatting a few rain drops started to fall, we moved further under the dodger for cover and within only a matter of minutes the storm hit us full on like a tank, with over 60 knot winds. I couldn’t help wondering whether the guys out on their foils had been picked up (like Dorothy) and hurtled across the ocean to the mainland.

CB8071DD-6565-41F9-AB10-B3AA257025EAOur window shade-covers which are usually securely fastened had been undone to allow us to open one of the large windows in our saloon, consequently the 60 knot winds picked all the covers up and I was sure it would be the last we would see of them, thankfully they were well secured at the top, and actually held through the storm. The wind whipped up the water in the bay and we were engulfed in a thick mist

 

B0FD29F2-1EC9-4641-A5F3-723BBC792A5EAs the waves built, messages started coming over the vhf about an unoccupied boat that was dragging into one of the other boats in the bay.  The noise from the storm was made worse by the deafening thunder, and as the lightening flashed overhead I quivered below clutching my bottle of vodka as if my life depended upon it.  I don’t do well in storms, especially if I’m on a boat.  I would love to tell you how brave I was and  how professionally I had checked all the hatches and made sure all was tied down or brought inside, instead all I could think about was a glass for my vodka? As usual I’m not the best first mate in a yachting crisis. It all happened so fast, but then at least no damage was done and Daisy has had a lovely fresh water wash down.
The worst of the storm passed within about 20 – 25 minutes, then we were left with dark skies, torrential rain and the odd clap of thunder.  Oh what a lovely day in the Tropics 🤪

Link to Ed & Paige’s video’s

My son and daughter-in-law have been living on their boat Sea Pearl and sailing the East coast of America and  the Bahamas for the last year.  Their video’s on You Tube following their adventures are lovely to watch. So I’m including a link to one of their video’s. You can find them on Instagram and You Tube, please follow and subscribe,  the videos are fun to watch.

Copy and paste this link :   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9qpJ2TQBCk

Ed & Paige @ Marsden

Enjoy 🙂

Shameful people

Sunday 19th June 2022

I can hardly believe I’ve been in Fiji for 12 days now, how time flies when you’re having fun! It really is so beautiful here, the water is crystal clear and warm as bath water, the islands are so pretty,  the snorkeling is great and the coral is looking very healthy, at least from what we’ve seen so far.

Yet despite all the incredible beauty around us, it’s so disheartening to see the sheer amount of trash littering the beaches, so much broken glass from discarded beer bottles, cans, plastic bottles, plastic bags, shoes and other unwanted, used up stuff that shameful people just discard with no respect or thought for the islands, or the wildlife. I can’t ever remember it being this bad.

When our friends David and Karen were with us, they kayaked ashore to a resort and filled buckets and bags with trash off the beach, then handed it in to the resort for (hopefully) correct disposal.  I wish more people would be that thoughtful.

The little beach Bob and I visited yesterday away from the resort had so much trash, when I suggested we should do like David and Karen and collect it to be disposed of properly, Bob said there was so much trash we would need a skip not a bag. I would still like to try and clean up the beaches we visit, although sadly my efforts wouldn’t make the slightest difference; what we need is for people to be more respectful and responsible and not simply throw their trash away. I live in hope.

In the meantime if everyone visiting a beach  picked up and disposed of the trash properly, just think of the difference that would make, even if everyone only picks up one piece of trash.

From now on I’m going to do that, please join me 🙂